Wednesday, July 30, 2008

The New Scorpion Band


We went to the Holy Trinity Centre to a concert by a local 5-member band. Their instruments included voice, drum, squeeze-box, piccolo, Irish bagpipes, bassoon, fiddle, accordion, mandolin, dulcimer, tuba, and others that I can‘t remember.The music sounded very current and alive, unlike the music of some Celtic bands. One of the songs was a Hardy poem set to music--I think it was the Trampwoman’s Lament--which was the only excuse the Hardy Society needed to sponsor the event. There was wine and juice and biscuits, and John and I visited with his acquaintances from previous conferences.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

July 28 When Literary Enthusiasm Goes Too Far



Furze Swann took a captive coach-load of conference participants on a 5-hour death march around Tess sites. We drove miles and miles past the big and little dairies, listening to Furze read passages describing cows and barns and sheep fairs and hillsides, as our poor driver maneuvered past tractors and lorries. Here is the Wool Bridge, over which Tess and Angel walked after they married, and the site of their first fatal night together (fictional, of course). Hardy fans are as insane as any others, if not more so--we clustered around Furze as he pointed out relevant geographical spots from Bulburrow heights, and the day grew more and more hazy and hot. The air conditioning was inadequate, particularly in the back over the engine, where John and I were sitting, and feeling myself dehydrate (stupid blood pressure meds) I soon drank both my bottles of fluid. Four and ½ hours later, and no toilet in sight, the back row staged a mutiny, and the warden of the next church site (Rampisham Church, where Hardy accomplished his architectural apprenticeship by restoring the bell tower) allowed us to use the bathroom in his home.

Poetry and Celebrity

I walked into town for the readings at the United Reform Church on South Street. Furze Swann (“Furze” is such a great name--it is the old-fashioned Dorset version of the ubiquitous, thorny, yellow-flowered shrub called “gorse” in the rest of the British Isles) arranged more or less parallel pieces from his three favorite poets: Thomas Hardy, Edward Thomas (a WWI poet I‘ve never read), and Robert Frost. The readings were by three Royal Shakespeareans--Oliver Ford Davies, now playing Polonius in Stratford, Cheryl Campbell, and Harriet Walter, who played the brother’s greedy wife in Sense and Sensibility and my favorite, Harriet Vane in the BBC’s version of the Peter Wimsey stories. So I had my usual little thrill of celebrity insanity--I walked past all three on my way to the toilet after the program. (I’ve never actually touched a celebrity except my first, when Alan Rickman bumped into my knee at the Lyttleton Theatre on the south bank clear back before Harry Potter. I realized then that I had as much crazy fan girl makeup in me as anyone did).

History

We walked by a monument “In memory of those who suffered in Dorset in the religious troubles of the 16th and 17th Centuries,” many of whom were hanged, drawn, and quartered on this site. I should imagine, but don‘t know for sure, that many were Catholic. Of course they could have been Protestant too, depending on whether it was Henry, Mary, Elizabeth, or the Stuarts on the throne. It was interesting that the monument didn’t say which side anybody was on. It did say this:

It also quoted Robert Southwell, priest, “put to the torture thirteen times and executed in Tyburn 21 February 1595”:
“Not where I breathe, but where I love, I live;
Not where I love, but where I am, I die;
The life I wish, must future glory give.
The deaths I feele in present daungers lye.”

Durnovaria was surrounded by a wall, some of which exists 2000 years later. Here is a piece on the west side near the Borough Gardens:It is just the core of the wall, as "the smoother facing was used by locals for building in the middle ages." What would it mean to live in a place this old, so soaked in human history? Near the South Train Station are the Maumbury Rings, fortifications first built during the Stone Age, then made into a Roman amphitheatre, then used as a fairgrounds and an animal pen, and now a sort of public picnic area. Our students played Frisbee on/in them three years ago.

Walking, Eating, Sleeping

Dorchester is a very small place, maybe like Payson, Utah, but less spread out. It is the smallest county town (capital) in England. From Fordington on the East, where we went to church, to Poundbury on the west, is probably less than a mile and a half. Which is good, since I walked it three times Sunday and will probably walk it at least twice daily while we’re here, since I have not yet seen a number 31 bus, which is supposed to stop just down the street. Good exercise, up and down gentle hills. Its uphill to the B&B, and it’s so hot and humid I have to take off my clothes and stand still to dry off once I get back to our room. I think some of it is body temperature dysregulation from my blood pressure meds, a common side effect, (or maybe menopausal hot flashes just happened to hit right when I began this new prescription).

Anyway, I remember from previous trips how stripped down to basics one becomes when traveling like this. We had to remember to buy bread and cheese and fruit on Saturday, because last time we made an extended stay in Dorchester over the weekend (when Chris was eight years old), nothing was open on Sunday. I don’t think that’s actually true anymore, but we had a nice lunch in the Borough Gardens, on a bench as usual. Here is the town clock, and the bandstand, where there may be music and/or theatrical pieces later. John went on a walking tour of Dorchester sites and I walked back to the B&B to work on my novel, but fell asleep for four hours instead. Sleep like drowning in the heat. But I think I’m over jetlag.

July 27 Church

We were up early for the staggeringly--I don’t even know what to call it--various, nutritious, sustaining, and delicious, as cooked by our hosts--English breakfast, and then caught a ride with our housemate Linda (also here for the Hardy Conference) to St. George’s Church, Fordington, for Sunday morning service. It was interesting to attend a Church of England service in honor of the grumpy old agnostic. He apparently quit church in architectural offense over an addition to the bell tower, which he called the “pepper pot.” He probably would have objected to the lightning rod as well. This is a modern church, according to the pamphlet on its history, with the tower dating back only to the 1400’s, and most of the church 19th and 20th century, although built on Roman and Norman foundations. The windows were by William Morris and Edward Bourne-Jones.

In addition to the regular hymns and responses, this service included readings of Hardy prose and poetry about churches and church singing. The sermon was by an ecclesiastical woman from Canturbury who is a Hardy enthusiast here for the conference, who spoke with humor and sweetness. The priest also seemed funny and casual and sweet, while celebrating the high church rituals with reverence. Music was provided by the Beaminster Gallery Quire and players (viol, pipe, clarinet), in period costume. My favorite piece was a sped-up and lengthier version of the Old One Hundred, which I love anyway from childhood reading of “The Secret Garden” (the One Hundred refers to its number in the hymnbook, I realized today). The congregation, average age probably 67, stood and sang loudly and with vigor.

I made a video of the postlude music, which was a dance tune from the mid 19th century, hoping to upload it to the blog, but it looks like my little mini-computer can’t read my videos. Oh well, maybe when we get back.
I remember one of our Mormon acquaintances saying she envies the English their churches, and I know what she means. On a cold winter night, this church would have been foot-aching frigid, but on a hot summer morning, it was a cool oasis, a vaulted, echoing sanctuary from the world outside. I dumped all my change in the little bag they brought around during the collection, and now I don‘t have any money for the bus.

July 25-26 Travel

Traveling like this--yanked from one hemisphere and hurled across the ocean to another--does something very odd to my sense of person, place, and time. I am grateful for air travel. I would not look forward to floating for weeks or months in the lower decks of a small vessel, as the g-g-g-grandparents did, coming the other way, but I wonder if it was so very disorienting. We were silly in Houston, on our 4-hour layover, awake during the compressed night and morning in the air,and haggard by Victoria Station, waiting for our train to Dorchester.

Thirty hours after Betsy left us at the SL Airport, we were at our B&B in Poundbury, a mile out from Dorchester town centre. This is the view from our window. Somewhere just out of sight are the remains of Roman Poundbury Camp and aqueduct, which we will have to walk to and look at before we leave. Dorchester was Durnovaria two thousand years ago. I thought the streetlight was evocative of Narnia, except at night, when it is just another light in the eyes.